사직서를 보내고, 퇴계 이황을 만나다 :: 도산서원
일상다반사/멋진신세계2008/05/12 01:21
지난 2월 초 사직서를 냈다. 이유야 여러 가지가 있지만 명목상으로는 '일신상', 실제로는 '마저 못한 공부를 행하겠다'는 다짐이 주요한 이유였다. 제출한 사직서는 3월 말에야 수리되었다. 학령기도 아닌 나이에 공부라니? 덜컥 사직서를 내고나니 앞길이 막막했다. 생각을 정리할 겸, 봄바람 타고 안동행 버스에 몸을 실었다.
산 가까이 살기 위해 퇴계 이황(1501~1570)은 일흔세가 될 때까지 무려 40여 차례나 임금에게 사직서를 보냈다 한다. 거의 필사적이라 할 만한 이 행적을 두고, <자전거 여행>을 집필한 김훈 작가는 "사직서만이 이미 인의(仁義)를 저버린 정치 현실의 공세로부터 자신의 초야(草野)를 방어할 수 있는 유일한 수단"이라고 표현했다.
경북 안동 지역을 여행하는 일은 퇴계의 삶의 진실에 가까이 다가가서 그 편린이나마 더듬어내는 일이라야 옳을 터이다.경북 안동까지 내려왔으면, 어떻게든 이곳을 들러야한다는 생각에 무작정 택시를 잡아 탔다. 대부분의 유적지가 그렇듯 도심지에서 꽤 멀었다. 만만치 않은 택시비. 기사 아저씨 왈, "차도 없을 텐데 나오실 때까지 기다릴까요?" 아니, 그럴 필요까지는... -_-;; 지갑이 요란하다.
지갑에서 천원짜리 구권을 찾았다. 있다! 내 손에, 그리고 내 눈 앞에!! 구권 화폐의 도안이 1983년에 적용되었으니까 25년의 세월을 두고 같은 곳을 바라보게 된 것이다. 소나무를 제외한 몇몇 나무는 눈에 띄게 자랐다.
시냇가에 비로소 살 곳을 마련하니 흐르는 물가에서 날로 새롭게 반성함이 있으리.
계상정거도. 퇴계 생존시의 건물인 서당을 중심으로 주변 산수를 담은 겸재 정선의 대표작(보물 제585호)으로 현재 은행권에 인쇄되어 친숙한 작품이다. 신권을 꺼내 이리보니 그 느낌에서 확연한 차이를 가진다. 이황 선생 생존시의 도산서당은 검박하고 여유로우며 넉넉한 데 반해 현재 모습은 보다 풍유롭고 위엄이 있다. 후세 사람들이 그의 철학과 선비정신을 기리며 사후 건축물을 하나둘 서원에 들였기 때문일까.
도산서당. 퇴계 그의 나이 예순에 이곳을 짓고 후학들과 함께 말년을 여기서 보냈다. 그는 흐르는 물가에 배움터를 마련하고 나서 시를 한 수 지었는데, '날로 새롭게 반성하리다'고 하였다. 흐르는 물이 있어 가능한 걸까? 날로 때 묻고 얼룩이 지는 세파 속에서 잉태君은 무엇을 어떻게 정화해야 할지도 모르는 가련한 우민일 뿐이다.
도산서원의 지붕은 가장 단순한 맞배지붕에 홑처마이다. 한옥이 건축물로서 성립될 수 있는 최소한의 조건들만을 가지런히 챙겨 겸허한 구도를 이뤘다. 절제의 극에 닿은 그 구도 안에서 퇴계 자신의 삶의 태도를 물리적 공간에다 고스란히 투영해 놓은 모습이다.
퇴계는 서당을 휘감아 도는 낙동강을 벗삼아 살았다. 재세시(在世時)에 건립한 운영대와 천영대는 자연의 심오한 참뜻을 깊이 사색하기 위한 것이라 할 수 있다. 서원 경내를 중심으로 절벽을 이룬 동쪽을 천연대(天淵臺), 서쪽을 운영대(雲影臺)라 부른다. 천연대는 시경(時經) 주구절 중 연비려천 어약우연(鳶飛戾天 漁躍于淵, 하늘에는 새가 날고 강물에는 고기가 뛰놀다)에서 따온 말로, 좌우에 둘러진 산과 강물의 아름다운 경치를 한눈에 바라볼 수 있어 장관을 이룬다.
이 곳에 서면 강 건너 맞은 편으로 우뚝 솟은 건축물이 눈에 띄는데 바로 시사단이다. 시사단(試士壇)은 조선시대 지방별과를 보았던 자리를 기념하기 위해 세운 비각이다. 조선 정조대왕은 퇴계 이황의 유덕(遺德)을 추모하여 1792년 관원 이만수를 도산서원에 보내어 임금의 제문으로 제사를 지내게 하고, 그 다음 날 이곳 송림에서 과거(科擧)를 보게 하였다고 한다. 원래의 송림은 안동댐 공사로 수몰되고 단(壇)만이 현 위치에서 지상 10m 높이로 축대를 쌓고 그 위에 과거의 자리를 표해 두고 있다.
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